Horse Riding in Cyprus on a Thoroughbred

My husband and I traveled to Cyprus recently. I didn’t really know what to expect except hot temperatures, beaches with stunningly clear water, and and I was hoping for lots of hummus. And horses. And horse riding in Cyprus!

My hubby Mark checked out TripAdvisor ahead of time and contacted the CYEP Cyprus Equestrian Federation to see about places for horseback riding and reserve accommodations nearby. My riding (and hummus) expectations were not disappointed!

If you find yourself in  Cyprus and want to go for jaunt along the sea with an entertaining guide, then head over to Georges Ranch and ask for Shirley. The event rider/former racetrack rider/world horseback traveler is my new riding hero.

When I arrived at the barn, I filled out a very short riding abilities form on which I had to circle the highest level of my riding. The word “jumping” was on the far right of the page; I circled it and wrote next to it (“small jumps”). I didn’t want to overstate my abilities and I had no idea what obstacles our trail might present.

The barn manager clarified there would be no jumping out on a trail ride; at that point I figured I’d get to trot a few yards–but oh well, at least I’d be able to take pretty pictures of the Mediterranean.

When I met Shirley she was wearing a red riding helmet with what looked like a decorative layer of aluminum foil that sparkled in the sun. She explained it was from either a charity dress-up event or fun show, I don’t remember which, but I knew she knew how to have a good time. Shirley also wore shorts in the saddle–I don’t know how she did it. (That pinchy feeling from stirrup leathers on bare skin–OW!).

As it turned out, I was the only one on the ride which worked perfectly as I got a tutorial on life in Cyprus and its history from my guide. Shirley, originally from London, was an encyclopedia in a saddle. She has been involved in an archaeology group on the island–and once found an ancient coin on a dig! We talked about horse nutrition and she cited the differences in a Cypriot horse’s diet versus. a horse from the UK. She pointed out to me a small island close to shore which researchers believe was a seminary at one time.

I felt like I was watching a Cyprus documentary from the comfort of the saddle!

Riding Elvis the Thoroughbred on Cyprus

Then I met Elvis. Not the real one. This Elvis had been owned by the Elvis impersonator of Cyprus for a couple of years who had renamed him I think from the less showbizzy name Pegasus. Shirley told me he was really good–the Elvis impersonator. But Elvis the horse was also good. He was, after all a bay retired Thoroughbred racehorse, so he had my vote of confidence from the start.

Elvis’s second career involved showing in FEI dressage on the island (I didn’t catch what level). He was a delight to ride, responsive to my aids and navigated the often rocky terrain like an ibex. Shirley’s horse was a gorgeous warmblood and she warned me in advance he might act up a little bit as he was fresh. He actually threw in a few spooks and rears at the outset and Shirley leaned forward like a trick rider and laughed off his antics. She stuck like glue. I told her I wanted to ride like her when I grew up.

Along the way we saw carob trees which have a long pod in which the natural chocolate-like substance is contained. Shirley said on Cyprus people give their horses carob as a treat. She then extolled its health benefits and described a number of ways carob could be incorporated into cuisine.

We trotted past a brand new development of vacation homes with to-die-for sea views. Shirley told me she was filmed for a Russian television show (maybe commercial) when she was on that same stretch of trail earlier in the summer. She happened along the camera crew and they loved having horses in the background so they made her go back and lead the group through a couple of times to get it just right.

On the Edge of the Mediterranean

Then we approached amazing limestone cliffs with Mediterranean views that went on forever. Shirley warned me that on some days there are nude sunbathers lying on the rocks. That day we were spared the awkwardness.

I posed for a snapshot, reluctant to creep too close to the edge (I have a fear of heights and drop offs–I’ll never forget one of my first trail rides with Knight last summer and the trauma of the mountain switchbacks, not knowing the trail resume of my retired ex-racehorse). Elvis took care of me and stood like a statue.

Once we got to a place where the ground was flat and relatively rock free, Shirley asked if I wanted to canter. The answer was yes (of course!) and off we went. Elvis flew but never felt on the edge of being out of control. And after dozens of strides of swallowing the dusty trail, Shirley held up her hand to signal slowing down–Elvis came back beautifully.

We talked more about food and I remarked how I’d developed a taste for halloumi, the squeaky, salty cheese found in most restaurants and at our hotel’s buffet breakfast. Shirley told me sliced watermelon was a delicious accompaniment to halloumi and if I ever had to take appetizers to a party, making a plate of watermelon and halloumi would take about five minutes and be perfect.

As we began our turn that would eventually lead us back to the barn, I noticed a Roman column standing solitary in the distance? “Can we go over there?” And so we walked as close as we could get to the fened-off ruins. (I’m a history teacher by day so going out on a trail ride and just happening upon ruins was very exciting.)

On the way back Shirley asked if I would like to lead our canter. I said yes and navigated Elvis ahead of her horse. We picked up the three-beat gait and I am sure I had a huge smile on my face as the sea flashed by on our right. My hands and elbows followed the movements of this wonderful, gentlemanly horse.

For a split second I worried I might not be able to pull him up since he was very forward and I assumed he knew we were heading home. Before the path changed to run alongside someone’s house, I sat down, held the reins tighter and Elvis came to a walk. In that moment I thought this 21-year old would be a perfect second horse, if only I didn’t live on the other side of the world!

We walked the rest of the way back to the equestrian center and upon returning I asked for a picture with Shirley. She told me on Cyprus instead of saying “cheese” for a picture they say “halloumi.” And so we posed with our two bay mounts in the middle of the arena and said “Halloumi!”

Thank you Elvis, Shirley, and Georges Ranch for an amazing ride. And if you ever find yourself in Cyprus, look them up!

Your Turn: Where have you ridden or where would you like to ride on a vacation? What did you learn about the culture from horseback?